Big Eighties hair is back – how to style it without looking retro

You may have seen the Eighties revival seeping its way into fashion with peplum tops and shoulders pads – but the retro resurgence has finally reached our hair.

“Big hair is back, but it’s had a very modern makeover. The key difference now is softness,” says celebrity hairstylist Jason Collier, founder of Studio23. “You want lift and fullness, but with movement and ‘touchability’, not rigid structure […] your hair should look as though it can move.”

‘Modern’ Eighties hair, in other words, has less lacquer and more lightness.

The haircut does half the work

Volume doesn’t start with products, but in the chair at your hairdresser. Collier says the right cut will build the illusion of fullness before you’ve even picked up a styling tool.

For curly hair, the same principle applies – but precision matters more. Curly hair expert and Curlsmith ambassador Nicola Harrowell explains: “When it comes to curls, the cut is everything.

“Ask your hairdresser for layers that are designed specifically for curly hair […] you want rounded layers that allow curls to spring up and out, not heavy lengths that pull them down.”

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Products that create volume and shape without crunch

What distinguishes today’s big hair from retro throwbacks is texture. Collier says the worst mistake is loading hair with heavy creams and traditional stiff sprays.

“Good-looking volume comes from products that support the hair, not coat it,” he says. “Root sprays, light mousses and fine texture mists are perfect because they give lift and grip without stiffness.

“What you want to avoid are heavy waxes, thick creams or old-school hairsprays while styling, because they make hair look crunchy and flat very quickly.”

And if you have more natural movement, you need even more care – but Harrowell says support, not stiffness, should still guide your choices. “A lightweight mousse is ideal because it gives curls lift and hold while keeping them soft and bouncy […] Volume should feel airy, not coated.”

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How to blow-dry for max volume 

There is one universal pro trick for volume, and that lies in directional drying.

“Drying the roots in the opposite direction to how the hair naturally falls instantly creates lift,” says Collier, “even flipping your head upside down for the first few minutes makes a big difference.”

And while it may feel a bit retro, large rollers remain a stylist secret. Leave them in while the hair cools and you’ll get shape without stiffness.

“When styling long layers, I’d always recommend using a large round brush to inject extra volume and shape the layers,” explains stylist Sophie Chandler from RUSH Hair. “Blow dry the hair back and forth away from the root, lifting the hair to achieve a texturised, voluminous finish!”

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Keep the hair healthy or the look collapses

There’s one theme every stylist wants to drive home: health equals volume. Chandler warns that heat styling without protection “strips the hair of its natural moisture, while severely weakening the structure of your hair”.

Her non-negotiable: heat protectant, every single time.

Unhealthy hair can also affect the look of your hair when styling. “Healthy hair always looks fuller, so protection is non-negotiable,” says Collier. “Don’t overdo it day after day.”

Hydration matters for curls, too. Harrowell says balanced moisture means fuller, shinier, more defined curls – even with minimal effort.