Can you have an active holiday with a toddler in tow?

It’s easy to assume having children completely changes the way you’ll have to travel, and to some extent it’s true. There are a thousand more practical considerations once you have a little one in the mix, and – depending on their age – there are limitations on what they can do.

I used to love long hikes, epic scenery and generally being as active as possible while abroad, but my three-year-old daughter’s idea of a substantial walk is about 15 minutes.

So, I didn’t imagine I’d be able to do a 50km road bike ride on my first solo parenting trip with my child – yet here I am, having corralled myself a 432-metre single climb to the Rhodes village of Profilia, with around 20 other riders, taking in the cascading hills, olive trees and little white villages of the largest of the Dodecanese islands of Greece. All the while, my daughter is being expertly looked after in a childcare setting back at my hotel.

“Five hundred metres to go! You got this!” she calls as she rides just ahead, and with legs like jelly in dry heat, I can finally enjoy an iced coffee at the top.

Eleni is a Rhodes native and out of all the Greek islands (Crete is famous for its cycling routes too) she believes here offers the most on two wheels.

“Honestly, it’s not because I’m from here, I think this is best. We have perfect weather – even in winter it’s 15 or 16 degrees, or at worst, six to eight degrees but still nice. We have a lot of uphill. We have good quality of tarmac and when you get out of the centre of the towns, it’s totally empty [on the roads]. In the winter there’s no cars at all, only the local people live here so it’s perfect.”

My descent from Profilia is a perfect example; no cars, smooth tarmac, allowing the bike to glide curve to curve along the roads. An unlucky puncture slows me down but Eleni insists I ride her (very pro) bike back to Kamari Beach, where my hotel is located on the east coast of the island, while she fixes it.

Along some parts of the coastal path, the remains of charred black trees can be seen – a lasting memory of the devastating wildfires in Rhodes of July 2023, during the hottest month ever recorded.

For the many parents who undertake these rides, or the many other activities and tuition included in the half-board holiday price (like group tuition for tennis, padel, sailing and windsurfing – at anywhere from beginner to return customers perfecting their skills each year), it’s only possible because they feel confident leaving their children in the childcare setting – knowing they’ll have a great time too.

As a UK company, the early years carers (babies and toddlers) have similar qualifications that you would expect back home, with NYQ childcare level 3, but with even better ratios. In the baby club (four-12 months), one carer will look after two babies, for one-year-olds it’s 1:3, for two-year-olds 1:4, and for my daughter’s age group it’s 1:6 (although there happen to only be three children in her group this week, looked after by the lovely Annabel). The service goes up to the age of 17, should you need it.

Either morning or afternoon sessions are included in the half-board price, which gives a nice balance to a family holiday (although extras can be added) as well as evening sessions from 7:30 -10pm where children watch a film, sweetly from individual camp beds and sleeping bags lined up on the floor – while parents can have dinner child-free should they so wish, and carry a sleepy child to bed whenever they’re done.

A hotel could have all the plush interiors and excellent service, but for me, childcare on holiday feels like a true luxury; a few hours to lie on a sun lounger, a chance to swim freely in the crystal-clear sea, visit the spa, or just have a cup of tea uninterrupted (parents of young kids, you know).

As I paddle further from the bay, there’s a morning mist that makes the blue-grey sky and sea almost blend together ahead of me. I breathe deeply and lie down on my board, losing track of time, and feeling completely in the moment. I don’t get many of these with a toddler at home.

They overlook the picture-postcard St Paul’s Bay, with a small white chapel flagging one curve, and pristine yellow sand sweeping around to sophisticated restaurant Tambakio. It feels like a special find, as we swim and play in the perfect shallow waters for the afternoon. Entry to be beach is free and the Bali beds cost 40 euros to hire – but it could be worth it for a family for a whole day at this beautiful spot.

Mark Warner (0845 322 5037) offers a week at Kamari Beach Resort from £699 per adult and £199 per child based on three sharing. Includes return flights from London Gatwick, seven nights half-board accommodation and transfers, activities and tuition, plus six mornings or afternoons of childcare.