Designers VIN + OMI: ‘Fashion is a terrible business for mental health’

VIN + OMI, the contentious design duo famed for their avant-garde and sustainable garments supported by King Charles III, have never been content to live by fashion industry norms.

The pair have chosen to showcase a collection at same time as London Fashion Week (LFW) – featuring Dame Prue Leith on the catwalk – but independent from the British Fashion Council (BFC), as a stand for sustainabily and smaller labels.

“It means there’s no rules and we can do what we like,” says Vin, “We’re not making the clothes to sell them.”

Vin believes the fashion industry is innately unsustainable and geared against young creatives. “[Designer brands] have set up these empires where you need to turn over your billions in order to survive – it’s greedy. It means designers get in debt for London Fashion Week, which is terrible – anxiety inducing.

“Say you get that £10 million investment – you’re constantly trying to justify that by producing six collections a year for the sake of reputation – then you just can’t sustain it.

Predominantly based in Norwich near King Charles III’s Sandringham residence, VIN + OMI lead a nomadic lifestyle, gravitating to where Vin calls, “the places with the most waste” all over the UK, in order to learn about, source and rework materials that would otherwise go to landfill.

The designers have been collaborating with the King since 2019, where the duo use plants and weeds from his estate to create and develop sustainable fabrics.

When asked about the King’s continued support, it appeared to still feel fanciful. “It’s really weird,” said Vin, “but he sees how ridiculous we are with things – he’s not phased.”

At the designers’ 2022 show, held at The Dorchester Hotel in London, one of the King’s gardeners was in attendance. “It was all so juxtaposing – she was still in dungarees and she was sitting next to somebody dressed up in a duvet with eye holes cut out,” said Vin. “It was brilliant, and that’s what we’re about.

“Everyone’s coming together because of sustainability, and everyone who cares about sustainability isn’t going to have the same aesthetic. The planet is everybody.”

This year, VIN + OMI are using wood chippings from King Charles’ Sandringham estate. “Inside wood is cellulose, which we turn into this fabric,” explains Vin.

“Celluslose extraction is incredibly toxic so we’ve done it in a non-toxic process. It ends up with a very similar product but it will biodegrade quicker than normal – it would take about three years – so our legacy will be in the ground. At least that’s the aim!”

2024 marks VIN + OMI’s 20th anniversary, and they have titled the show as “Moxie”, meaning courage and perseverance.

“That’s what’s got us here – we’ve just steamrolled through,” says Vin, “Omi is autistic and I’ve got quite severe ADHD, and we just don’t function in the real world. You just charge through and then 20 years later you’ve got this retrospective.

“So ‘moxie’ is our past whilst tying in the current world state. You really need moxie to get through these stressful times.”

This year, restaurateur and Great British Bake Off judge Dame Prue Leith will be walking in the show. When questioned what the 86-year-old cook will be dressed in, Vin simply said, “We’re going to sex her up.”

Alongside Leith, Playboy model and American TV personality Josie Stevens will be walking.

VIN + OMI are nothing if not inclusive, the designers also have the UK’s so-called property queen Naomi Heaton walking, the CEO of The Other House – rival of London’s favourite member’s club, Soho House.

The show promises head-turning and tantalising moments – if accompanied by some mistakes. “We thrive on getting a lot of things wrong,” says Vin, “part of our procedure with eco work is experimentation which means you can never predict how something will to turn out.”