How safe is a gel manicure?

For many of us, a gel manicure has become as routine as a haircut. It’s hardwearing and promises two to three weeks of chip-free perfection.

But behind the mirror-shine finish, the sturdy exterior prompts a pressing question: are gels actually damaging our nails?Margaret Dabbs OBE, podiatrist and founder of luxury beauty and wellness brand Margaret Dabbs London, says the truth sits somewhere in between the gel themselves and how we treat them once they’re on our nails.

“There are a lot of horror stories surrounding gel manicures,” she explains, “[including] experiences from both salon and home treatments, which [could have caused] inflammation and extra sensitivity around the nail and the cuticle, nail infections and damaged nails.”Crucially, “this can be due to the application and removal process of the gel treatment, quality of the products being used, impact of the ingredients and, of course, the technique adopted by the therapist,” says Dabbs.In other words, gels themselves aren’t inherently destructive. The damage tends to come from how they’re applied, what they’re made from and – most of all – how they’re taken off.Why gels can weaken nails over timeGel and ‘builder in a bottle’ (BIAB) manicures rely on preparation. Nails are buffed so the product adheres properly, then cured under a UV or LED lamp. Removal usually involves soaking in acetone and scraping away softened layers.

Navy Cuticle Serum Pen, £8 (was £10), Space NK

Peeling feels satisfying in the moment, but it leaves the nail surface uneven and fragile, making it harder for anything – gel or strengthening polish – to adhere properly in future. The result is a cycle of damage that compounds over time.If you’re removing gel at home, then patience is paramount. Soaking thoroughly and easing the product away gently is far safer than forcing it off. Although regular long-exposure to an acetone soak isn’t great, so it’s often best to go to a trusted nail technician.

Leighton Denny Large Crystal Nail File (195mm) and Case, £14.40 (was £18), M&SAre there safer ways to get long-lasting nails?For those who love the look of a polished nail but want to avoid the wear-and-tear of gels, there are alternatives.Dabbs recommends upgrading your basics. “You should be ditching emery board nail files and use a good-quality crystal nail file,” she says, noting that they “promote healthy growth and ensure that the nails do not split or break.”Hydration is equally important. “It’s important that your nail bed and cuticles stay hydrated, as this will keep them looking healthy and will in turn promote strong nails.”