How to find the right wardrobe neutral for your complexion

The recent surge in colour analysis on social media which shows people getting their ‘colours done’ has begun dominating conversations about personal style and capsule wardrobes.

Whether you’re a “spring” or a “winter”, “warm” or “cool” toned, the debate around which shades of green or blue suit which undertone continues, but a more pertinent question deserves equal attention: which neutrals actually flatter you?

Neutrals may go under the radar in trend round-ups, but they’re hardly insignificant when it comes to wardrobe workhorses.

As designer and podcaster Amanda Wakeley OBE puts it – “neutrals are the quiet heroes of every wardrobe.” She believes that “finding the right ones for your skin tone is every bit as important as discovering your most flattering colours”.

When chosen well, “they become the foundation of your style – pieces you reach for time and again because they make you feel confident and at ease.”

So, here’s an expert guide on how to find the perfect neutrals for you.

Undertones and the ‘glow test’

Decoding whether your skin suits warm or cool neutrals can feel like an impossible test until you realise it’s often more instinctive than scientific.

Logic only gets you so far, says personal stylist Deborah Sheridan-Taylor, who advises stripping things back. “Remove all make-up and use natural daylight.

“Hold the item of clothing directly under your chin – if it makes your skin look bright and healthy, it is in your zone; too tired or sallow, it’s not.

“You’re looking for that instant glow ‘pick-me-up moment’, where your face comes alive, rather than recedes. Again, this is much more determined by a feeling.”

Wakeley advises looking beyond just skin tone, noting, “Your hair colour will be a factor too, especially if you colour your hair.”

She suggests a few clues. “If you burn easily you are probably a cooler undertone and if you tan easily you are more likely to be a warmer undertone.”

Even eye colour can play a role – “blue or green eyes are often associated with cooler undertones, while brown and hazel can be associated with warmer undertones.”

But one of the simplest ways to check is through jewellery. “If you tend to glow in gold, you likely suit warmer tones such as camels and ivory. If silver flatters you more, cool neutrals like dove grey, charcoal or crisp white are often your allies.”

But Wakeley cautions against being too rigid – sometimes, it’s about how you feel in a shade, not just how it reads.

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Matching tone to complexion

Once you know your undertone or season, knowing which neutrals to go for exactly is the next tricky task.

Wakeley finds that “for fair skin, soft greys, taupes and blush-toned neutrals feel beautifully refined”.

Olive complexions, she says, “come alive in creamy ivories, warm caramels and khakis,” while “deeper complexions look extraordinary in rich espresso, sand or luminous white”.

White is actually the trickiest neutral of all. “Optical white is a bright pure white, with a slightly blueish tone that makes it appear even brighter against the skin,” says Sheridan-Taylor, “while a true off-white has a yellowish or warmer tint like ivory.”

Therefore, if you’re a cooler undertone – or you’re wearing silver jewellery – opt for a pure white. But if you’re wearing gold jewellery or are of a warmer undertone, opt for more of an ivory white, which will flatter your skin tone more.

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When beige betrays you

While every beige, brown or taupe can blue into one – they’re certainly not all equal.

The wrong beige can make you look unwell and drain warmth from the face. Texture, Wakeley insists, can be transformative. “If beige feels too flat, try warmer oatmeal or soft biscuit tones instead.”

The same goes for grey, she notes, “if greys drain you, opt for a smoky mushroom or a gentle stone hue – something with a touch of warmth. Even adding texture – a boucle, silk or cashmere finish – can transform how a neutral plays against the skin.”

If you’re not one for the classic neutrals of browns, greys and whites, Sheridan-Taylor says there are some shades that are unsung neutrals.

“Khaki is a wonderful neutral alternative […] Navy is the unsung hero of the neutral family [and] maroon and clay are also wonderful neutral tones – adaptable to whatever you pair them with.”

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The new neutrals

You may think neutrals are timeless shades that come back year after year, but much like khaki, navy and maroon, Sheridan-Taylor points out there are some shades that become trending neutrals.

If you’ve had your eye on the runways – or even the high-street – as of late, you’ll have noticed that brown is the new black.

Wakeley says chocolate brown is “undoubtedly a new neutral”, calling it “surprisingly flattering on a wide range of skin tones.

“It teams beautifully with soft blushes and pale blues as well as stronger colour pops like lipstick red and moss green.”

If you still want to stick with your trusty beiges, greys and whites but want to update them, Sheridan-Taylor says that “a neutral is just a neutral until it becomes a sheer neutral.”

Transparency, she says, transforms classics into something modern. “A sheer beige skirt, worn with an oversized grey cashmere knit […] now you’re talking.”

Even layering sheer knits over monochromatic vests is coming back in, evoking the grunge-inspired semi-sheer trends of the Nineties.

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