A golf break like no other in the foothills of Mount Fuji, Japan

The first time I see the four-seater golf buggy roaming away from us with no driver, I imagine it’s careering out-of-control and brace myself for it to crash into a bunker, tree or person. Instead, it eerily stops in its tracks near to me on the fairway, where I’ve hit a rather decent drive.

Our lovely caddy Midori, who I realise is controlling the machine with a button in her pocket, runs over and whips out the club she predicts I will use next – a fairway wood.

I’ve never seen a remote-controlled buggy anywhere before. I am playing at the Kawaguchiko Country Club, around a two-hour drive west of Tokyo, Japan, and set in the foothills of stunning Mount Fuji, a World Heritage Site. On clear days, this iconic snow-topped volcano provides a breathtaking backdrop to this hilly 27-hole course.

The buggies here follow an electromagnetic strip under the tarmac tracks, meaning it never goes onto the fairways – so in turn the course is in fantastic condition despite this week’s rain.

Our buggy has an electronic screen with graphic displays of each hole, distance and recommended approach lines. And a scorecard to remind everyone who’s winning. I later learn others also have heated seats.

A round of golf in Japan is very different from anywhere in Europe I’ve ever played. It is something to be savoured like a special occasion, and there is a strong emphasis on ritual and socialising. The rounds can take over six hours, due to the leisurely lunch break taken after nine holes. And afterwards there is the option to bathe in the Onsen – a hot public bath to ease aching muscles and have a chat.

Some holes have two greens which are played on alternate days so they can be maintained in their immaculate state. There is also an escalator built into a steep slope – one of many firsts I am experiencing.

While there is a leisurely pace to the game, the courses themselves are challenging for all abilities. On the 18th at Kawaguchiko, I can only describe it as Bunker-geddon. It’s a par three with nine gigantic sand traps on a steep slope. My solution is to lay up twice on the approach with a pitching wedge as no way can I hit a ball over that lot. I think I may have been in double figures by the end of it.

As for Midori, all her club suggestions are accurate and she suggests great putting lines on the greens. She is caddying for four of us, which includes selecting and cleaning clubs, and wiping balls clean before taking a putt. Midori passionately denies being a golfer, but has an incredibly expert knowledge of the course with all its undulations and curves.

The following day sees me at the exclusive and incredibly scenic Narusawa Golf Club, a course favoured by former Japanese prime minister Shinzo Abe as well as sometimes hosting the JLPGA Ladies Tournament. The club has a very different, stripped-back Zen feel to it. We have another superb caddy, but this time the driverless buggy has no decorations, fleece blankets or screens.

The course itself is like a traditional Japanese garden with serene translucent lakes, arched bridges, clipped hedges and topiary trees. The most picturesque hole is the par three on the eighth hole, where Mount Fuji is reflected in the pond in front of the tee.

There is very little rough. Instead, there are acres of pristine red pines and birch trees lining the fairways for balls to get lost in – and a lot of bunkers. While this course is less hilly, I am thrilled to see that there is a moving walkway up one of the gentle slopes. Again, play is paused after nine holes for lunch – the choices being soups, ramen, curries and fried set meals.

For both courses, etiquette is key. As well as the usual dress code of collared shirts and tailored trousers, players must wear a jacket to enter the clubhouse. Tipping is also frowned upon and could be regarded as rude. Excellent service is standard and staff take pride in their work without expecting extra money.

The golf rounds have been arranged by the nearby Hanz Outdoor Resort, part of Hanz Golf Club which has an indoor golf facility and driving range in Yahashita, Tokyo (costing just £2.40 for an hour at the putting green and fairway bunker, and £4.75 an hour for the resort bunker).

The accommodation is set in the woods, has an incredible view of Mount Fuji and comprises of luxury villas, a guesthouse and a glamping site made up of Paos (tent-style domes). It also has an outdoor sauna in the woods and a mixed sex Onsen (as well as single sex Onsens where the tradition calls for bathers to be naked).

I am staying at one of the villas, which has a fantastic automatic loo with a heated seat (plus a menu of cleaning options), two bedrooms, a wood-burning stove, a high-end barbecue and its own Jacuzzi. Food to cook is ordered from the resort, including ingredients for a Sukiyaki Hot Pot which I have on the first night – comprising of local seasonal vegetables and Wagyu beef which are slow cooked in a cauldron of broth over a camping stove.

On night two, I am treated to a delicious Japanese Auberge dinner, privately cooked by the resort’s chef. It is a tasting feast of abalone and avocado, smoked Fujinosuke salmon, grilled lobster and sea urchin, grilled wine-fed beef with grated daikon radish sauce, deep fried tofu over an open fire and a matcha panna cotta.

Our host and keen golfer George Han tells us many tourists are looking for escapes, away from the traditional attractions of historic sites, Manga and bullet trains.

As well as golf, the resort facilitates cycling, canoeing at Lake Kawaguchiko, forest hikes, winery visits, lessons in wood chopping and stargazing. And although the resort is very popular with locals, George says there are increasing numbers of overseas visitors attracted by the outdoor living and authentic Japanese experience.

As a golfing destination, Japan has to be one of the most unique and surprisingly affordable (once you’re there) – similar mid to high-tier courses in Europe can be around the double the price for a round. The outstanding courses here are deeply rooted in culture and tradition, while also embracing modern technology.

How to book:

Rooms at Hanz Outdoor Resort (hanz-odr.com) start at £157pp, based on two sharing, and £424 per villa sleeping for up to four people per night on a room-only basis.

Return flights from London Heathrow to Tokyo Haneda with Lufthansa, from £820pp.

At Kawaguchiko Country Club (kcc.tatemono-golf.com), nine holes are priced from £51, including lunch. At Narusawa Golf Club (zuien.net/narusawa) 18 holes are priced from £87 including lunch.