Dara Klein’s saffron risotto recipe

“In many ways, this is the most iconic recipe in the canon of risotto,” says Dara Klein. “The story goes that it was first cooked in the 16th century, created as a visual joke for the wedding of a master glassmaker’s daughter (saffron was used as a stained-glass colouring at the time).

“The first written documentation, however, appears around the early 19th century, with bone marrow and nutmeg among the ingredients listed. The dish was called risotto giallo until 1829, when the Milanese chef Felice Luraschi renamed it risotto alla Milanese.

“I like to allow the saffron to infuse very gently alongside a slowly melting ice cube. It may not be the fastest method, but I believe it extracts the flavour and colour beautifully.”

Risotto alla Milanese

Ingredients:
(Serves 4 as a primi)

4g saffron
1 onion
80g Parmigiano Reggiano
1.1 litres vegetable or chicken stock
125g salted butter
320g carnaroli rice
150ml white wine
Sea salt

Method:

1. Place a single ice cube in a small bowl with the saffron, allowing it to slowly melt at room temperature. Finely dice the onion and grate the Parmigiano. Pour the stock into a saucepan and warm over a low heat. Cube the butter and place it in the fridge. Weigh out the rest of the ingredients so that everything is ready to go.

2. Melt 25g of the butter in a wide saucepan over a medium heat. Add the diced onion and a five-finger pinch of salt and cook until soft and translucent. Add the rice, increase the heat to medium-high and toast in the pan for five minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Do not skip this process. You’re looking for the rice to turn golden brown and release a toasted aroma. Add the wine and allow the alcohol to evaporate for one-to-two minutes.

3. Start a 20-minute timer and begin adding the stock one ladleful at a time, stirring constantly over a medium heat and waiting until most of the liquid has been absorbed by the rice before adding more. Do not give up on stirring – it’s worth it, I promise. Keep an eye on the timer and ensure you’ve used most of the stock by the end. Check for seasoning and the firmness of the rice every now and then. Don’t let the rice become soft and mushy: it should resemble al dente pasta.

4. Remove the risotto from the heat and add the remaining butter and the grated Parmigiano. Try to toss the pan, achieving mantecatura. The wave motion created by rocking back and forth will create an incredible emulsification, more so than just stirring, so give it a go. Stir in the saffron water (discarding any ice that hasn’t melted). Check the risotto for seasoning and add more salt if needed. I do not recommend adding black pepper as it will overpower the gentle flavour of the saffron.

5. Ladle generous amounts of risotto onto the plates and gently move it in a circle while tapping the bottom to achieve a nice flat layer. Serve immediately.

La Trattoria by Dara Klein is published in hardback by Ebury Press, priced £30.00. Photography by Caitlin Isola. Available now.