Elegant Tipperary artisan hails her loyal staff as the backbone of her catering success

I first met the delightful Barbara Russell of Russell Catering at her home in scenic Kilmanahan.
Aged 63, she is a tall, striking woman, dressed simply in a shirt and jeans. I found an elegance about her, how she spoke and held herself.

On the veranda, where Barbara had chosen to do the interview, a table had been laid with tea and coffee and a lovely selection of pastries. I sampled her delicious chocolate chip cookies, shortbread, and gluten-free brownies.
The eldest of five children, Barbara was born and raised just outside Tipperary Town.
Her father, Dave was a vet. Her mother, Nora, was a member of the Burke’s Bacon family, Clonmel.
HOME COOKING
“When I was growing up, my mother loved to share food with family and friends in a very casual manner. It came very naturally to her so from a young age, I was introduced to the skills of home cooking,” said Barbara.

Barbara has dyslexia so school was a challenge for her, especially English. “Dyslexia was not fully understood in the 1970’s, I remember well how I disliked writing, reading, and spelling. It was especially disappointing for me when I was in my leaving cert year that Home Economics did not include cookery,” said Barbara.

With encouragement from her parents, Barbara began to focus on her talents. “I loved planning events such as tennis competitions, all the social aspects of the tennis club and events at home. Dyslexia or any challenge should never hold one back. Always look for and focus on one’s talents,” she added.
In 1981, at the age of 22, Barbara left home for England. She found a position as a trainee chef at the London School of Cordon Bleu and she trained there for one year.

CAMBRIDGE
“I then secured a position on a large game and wildlife estate in Cambridge. I ran the house which was self-funding, using the game and wildlife. We held corporate events regularly. We hosted the pop group Bucks Fizz who had recently won the Eurovision Song Contest. On another occasion, we hosted a luncheon for Margaret Thatcher’s private Secretary, Francis Pym. I have so many wonderful memories from my time at the estate,” said Barbara.

COOLMORE
Barbara left England in 1982 to return to Ireland. Shortly after arriving home, she received a phone call from Mr Magnier of Coolmore Stud offering her the position of private chef to the family.
“I had been highly recommended by a mutual friend of the Magniers. I accepted the position immediately. I ran the household, cooking for the family, clients, and guests. I also looked after the business side of Coolmore Stud. I loved my years there. I had great fun and enjoyment. I had the use of good quality ingredients which were grown in the garden,” said Barbara.
Barbara stayed with the Magnier family for nine years.
“After that period, I felt it was time to follow my dreams. Working for the Magnier family was wonderful and I know it boosted my confidence greatly,” she said.
To this day, Barbara remains good friends with the Magnier family and points out that the horse racing industry are very loyal and supportive of her.
Barbara told of an occasion when she was a guest at a wedding and as she observed how the caterer was handling the event, that was the turning point for her.

CATERING CAREER
“I knew then that catering was what I wanted to pursue. I had no doubt in my mind,” said Barbara.
In 1990, at the age of 31, Barbara started her own catering company. Starting small, her business grew mostly by word of mouth.
In 1986, Barbara met her future husband, Gerard.
“I had known Gerard for a while through our families. I felt he was my soul mate, and we were married in Adare, county Limerick in 1993,” said Barbara.

Barbara and Gerard honeymooned in the south of France on a wine tour. Barbara pays tribute to her husband for his support.
“He gives me accounting advice and I can bounce any ideas I have to him. He will never put me wrong. Gerard is also a vet for the Department of Agriculture,” said Barbara.
Barbara and Gerard rented accommodation in Clonmel for a number of years. Over time, their three children were born and their new home in Kilmanahan was well underway.

LOYAL STAFF
Barbara has a very loyal work team who have been with her for many years.
“My team are my backbone. I have lots of students working in the kitchen or onsite, which is great training for them in how hard you have to work for your pay. But it is more than that – I always like to encourage my young students who have a culinary interest and treat them the way I’d like to be treated myself: with respect. There is always a great atmosphere in the kitchen. I like when there’s joking and laughter in the kitchen as it shows the food is made with love and care. The team are a big part of our family. We have our meals together and great stories have been regaled around the table,” said Barbara.
Barbara and her team travel nationwide bringing the Tipperary food story to venues where she says, “we marry our Tipperary ingredients with the ingredients from the venues that we attend.”
Covid affected Barbara more than most.

“At the start of the national lockdown, bookings were cancelled.
“What I missed most was the interaction with my customers,” said Barbara.
Barbara received a phone call one day from Graham Cantwell and Susan Ryan. They had opened a coffee shop called No Filter on Parnell Street in Clonmel.

“Graham and Susan had previously worked for me and when they asked if I would be interested in providing products for their coffee shop, I jumped at the chance. I supply them with gluten-free brownies, shortbread, flapjacks, snickers and chocolate chip cookies,” said Barbara.
Barbara’s products proved to be very popular.
“I still provide my products to No Filter and also to Martin’s Fruit and Veg at the West Gate in Clonmel, the Lazy Bean in Cahir, the Hermitage Pod in Ardfinnan, and the Deja coffee shop in Thurles,” she said.
Barbara is now running her company for 32 years and has enjoyed every minute of it.

WONDERFUL PEOPLE
“I love the variety, the challenges, every day brings something different. Some years ago, I catered for Andrew Lloyd Webber when he brought his production of Joseph and the Amazing Technicolour Dream Coat to Fethard. It was the most amazing experience. I once catered for 16 golfers who were doing the links tour around Ireland. I have indeed met a lot of wonderful people,” she said.
Barbara is a great believer in using local sources for all her vegetable products etc. “We have to support each other, that is how the wheels of business keep turning. It makes perfect sense to do that. I am very involved in the Tipperary Food Producer’s Group, the Chamber of Commerce and South Tipp Women in Business. Support is key to any business,” said Barbara.
Barbara’s advice to anyone starting their own business is straight and to the point. If one is passionate about what one wants to achieve, go for it, follow the dream, work hard, and don’t let challenges hold you back.

WONDERFUL LIFE
Barbara and Gerard will be 29 years married this year. “Our children are doing very well. I feel like I have been blessed with a wonderful life,” she said.
Congratulations are also in order for Barbara on her nomination and recognition at Blas na hEireann Irish Food Awards for her delicious buttery shortbread biscuits.
As I drove away from Barbara’s lovely home, I stopped and looked at the beautiful trees around the landscape. The Knockmealdown mountains were truly a sight to behold.

Two books, Artisans of Clonmel and Artisans of Cashel, were published before Christmas.
They were launched as part of Clonmel Applefest and the Cashel Arts Festival. They both carry the stories of craftspeople in the community.
The Nationalist is publishing stories from both books. The article for this week was written by Bernie Condon Bernie lives in Clonmel with her husband and family. She writes poetry and prose. Her poems have been published in festival booklets, in the local newspaper and more recently in a book published on Tipperary writers titled “Around each bend.” Bernie is part of a wonderful group of writers and artists, to whom she says she owes everything.