Is Southampton the history-packed summer break you’ve never thought of?

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SeaCity Museum in Southampton

James Besanvalle explores the underrated city on a sunny weekend.

As I walk into a room with a giant black and white map on the floor, a sea of red dots immediately fills my eyes.

Each 10 pence piece-sized dot scattered across a map of Southampton represents a local who worked and lost their life on the RMS Titanic after it set on off its maiden voyage from the dock here in this south coast city on April 15, 1912.

Tourists tiptoe over clusters of blood drop-like spots, with some filling up entire streets. I have chills as I walk through the room of the SeaCity Museum, Southampton. Of the 2,224 people on that fateful voyage, 900 were crew members from this city, making up the majority of the ship’s workers.

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And of the estimated 1,500 people who died when the Titanic sank, roughly 540 of those were from Southampton. I learn that in one school, half of the pupils were left fatherless overnight.

Southampton’s link to the Titanic is inescapable, but it’s not the only piece of important history in this seaside town. It’s just one jigsaw piece of a puzzle that makes this underrated British port city a history lover’s dream.

Just 90 minutes by South Western Railway train from London Waterloo, it’s also known as the cruise capital of the UK.

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As Kim de Courcy-Golder – my tour guide from the Southampton Tourist Guides Association, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year – tells me, this is due to the rare geological phenomenon that creates double tides, meaning that the port benefits from more frequent high water each day than any other south coast port.

The history of the area dates back to Roman and Saxon times but Kim tells me the city became an important port after the Normans arrived in 1066.

We start the two-hour walking tour at the Bargate – bang in the middle of the city centre – and I’m taken through an unassuming barred-up entrance in a stone passageway.

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Etched into the wall, there is graffiti in the stone of the Grade 1-listed monument of faces with forked beards, a popular style from the 12th century.

She estimates that the faces could have been drawn by those held pending trial for the Southampton Plot against Henry V in 1415, just before the campaign that led to the battle of Agincourt.

Kim shows me a cool (both in temperature and street cred) vault that was used at the height of the medieval wine trade. There were up to 60 vaults at the time, but now there are 18 council-owned and an undisclosed few in private ownership.

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Elsewhere a quiet street takes us to what appears to be a regular 19-metre brick wall. On closer inspection, it has the names of American soldiers etched into it, reportedly done before they were shipped out ahead of D-Day in 1944.

After two hours of the history-packed tour, I saunter back to my hotel – The White Star Tavern, situated on the bustling Oxford Street. Once called the Alliance Hotel, it was renamed after shipping company the White Star Line, which owned the Titanic, and a lot of passengers dined and stayed here before its ill-fated voyage.

General manager Bridget Vyze tells me a large number of US tourists stay at the hotel for its Titanic links, but also those looking to retrace the journey of the Mayflower, which transported a group of families from England to the New World in 1620.

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Over my two-night stay at the hotel, I tuck into mouthwatering roasted lamb rump with crushed new potatoes, perfectly pan-fried chicken supreme, and a refreshing Hugo spritz to enjoy in the sunshine. A special mention must go to the French toast at breakfast, complete with seasonal berries and whipped vanilla mascarpone.

But Southampton itself also has some great dining options. At Mango Thai Tapas, I try the punchy Thai-inspired margarita, a light Thai cucumber salad, dim sum pork and chicken, and chicken satay skewers – the latter two of which I’m told by my waiter are staples and if they stopped selling them, they’d “go out of business”. A Chang beer and mango sticky rice to finish the experience brings me right back to my days backpacking around Thailand.

Then there’s 1932, a speakeasy and cocktail bar, in a Thirties-era building that used to be a bank. It features a selection of elaborate cocktails against a backdrop of modern gold furnishings (including 32 statues of naked women) and a big sign that reads: “Who doesn’t like naked ladies?”

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For a nicely-cooked, authentic South American, Argento Steakhouse serves up juicy tenderloin fillet, while the slow-braised pulled beef birria tacos and chicken in adobo – and the frozen spicy margarita – at Overdraft is worth the trip alone.

On the restaurant’s doorstep is the Carlton Place monthly market, where traders like Mettricks bakers, Vinilo Records, Jude’s Ice Cream, Flo’s Flea Market and artisan food and drink stalls line the street. I’ve caught its opening weekend but it’s set to take place on the third Sunday of every month.

I stop at a small stall selling vibrant artworks and buy an A3 print of green and pink martini glasses clinking together. I think I might still be riding that high of the frozen margarita.

To mix things up, and for a more modern touch to the trip, I try my hand at 1st Base, which I’m told is the UK’s first interactive baseball batting cage.

I try, and sadly fail, to score a home run.

I also give Boom Battle Bar a go, where I try to learn axe-throwing at a target for the first time.

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This time, I get a bullseye and pose for a picture victoriously in front of it, before I continue the fun with a few surprisingly exhilarating games of shuffleboard.

Next to the aforementioned SeaCity Museum, is the Southampton City Art Gallery, which has just re-opened following a two year, multi-million pound refurbishment programme.

And for a little cheesy throwback fun, I find myself swaying to tribute bands, including the likes of the Red Hot Chili Peppers and Fleetwood Mac, while on their Southampton leg of a UK-wide Fake Festival tour.

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At the end of a jam-packed weekend, it is clear to me that the sunny seaside city of Southampton is dripping with history, but it’s not afraid to embrace its contemporary side too.

How to book:

To plan your trip, go to Visit Southampton. A two-night weekend stay for two people at The White Star Tavern starts from £223.30. South Western Railway tickets give access to discounts at different attractions around the city.

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